Nick Barose is one of the most well-rounded makeup artists we know. He works with celebrities of all races, genders (take one look at his Instagram and you can see he does a mean smoky cat eye on himself), and ages. A quick glance at his diverse clientele confirms this, a list that includes a combination of both ingenues and Hollywood heavyweights like Lupita Nyong'o, Amandla Stenberg, Angela Bassett, Holly Hunter, Zoe Saldaña, Gugu Mbatha-Raw, and Kim Cattrall, the latter of which he worked with this week for the premiere of her new show on CBS, Tell Me a Story, which debuts on Halloween.
Barose has worked with Cattrall since her Sex & the City days. "I've learned so much from her," Barose tells Allure. "She knows what she likes but is also open to my ideas and my new products suggestions so it's a great collaboration. The last time I did Kim's makeup was about a year ago, so I’m glad to working with her for the premiere of her new show." To celebrate the reunion, Barose captured the getting ready process exclusively for Allure. Below, in his own words, the makeup artist shares an intimate, behind-the-scenes look at getting Cattrall ready, as well as some of his best tips and tricks (some of which he learned from Cattrall through the years) when working with any client who is you know, above the age of 23.
"First of all, before you even open up your makeup bag (or bags in my case), you need to make sure you have good frontal light. If your lighting is not frontal then it casts dark shadows on your face (especially under the eyes), which may cause you to overdo your concealer and foundation, laying it on too heavy because you're trying to get rid of dark circles that really weren't that dark to begin with. Kim has great light at her place but I always travel with my portable light too (below, you can see hairstylist Bradley Iron, who was working with me that day, finding the perfect beauty light). You can easily buy one from Amazon and it changes everything.
Now here's the thing …less isn't always more. I think the whole “When you get older, you shouldn't wear too much makeup” is such a fad and is better in theory. But in real life, a bit more makeup is great as long as you use the right products and as long as the end result doesn't look heavy or caked on.
So how do you do that? Here are a few of my favorite complexion tips:
I always start with a rich moisturizer and let that sit for a second to absorb fully into the skin. All the makeup you’ll be layering on top of it might dry out your skin later in the day so you wanna be sure it’s really hydrated beforehand.
Primer is your friend. Look for ones that smooth, blur fine lines, and help your makeup last longer. I'm currently a fan of Giorgio Armani Beauty Maestro UV Skin Defense Primer.
Foundation should really look like second skin and not like a mask so your best bet is to look for a hydrating foundation formula. I love the Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation because it provides coverage without changing the texture of your skin. Apply with a dampened sponge, like the Thrive Causemetics Blend+ Blur Sponge, which is a current favorite of mine.
If you have discoloration then color correct. A light formula — like the one from Koh Gen Do — helps tone down redness so you don’t need to use as much foundation and powder to cover it up. This trick helps ensure your makeup doesn't end up looking too thick.
A luminous powder formula keeps your makeup looking polished while reflecting light. This way your complexion doesn't look overly powdered or dull.
Make sure to bronze and define. I love using bronzer around the perimeter of the face — across the top of the forehead, down the cheekbones, along the jawline — to gently sculpt the face (Nars' bronzer formulas are a good choice). It’s easier and softer than total contour which can read as harsh or severe, which is not what you want.
Below are a few of my favorite eye makeup tips, all of which I used on Kim:
Prepping lids with eye makeup primer is the perfect way to keep eye shadow smooth and silky. Nars' Tinted SmudgeProof Eyeshadow Base is a nice option.
When it comes to undereye concealer, you need a formula that will give you coverage but without looking cakey or dry, which ultimately emphasizes fine lines. I love a liquid concealer formula like M.A.C. Studio Fix Concealer or the iconic Clé de Peau concealer, which works amazing on all ages. Never use your fingers to apply because it'll get gloppy — use a concealer brush instead.
My best advice is to avoid heavy eye makeup (although, if you want to wear it, go right ahead!) but for the most part, the definition of your eyes should come from your eyeliner and mascara. Kim asked me to use a chocolate brown liner instead of black because defines the eyes but in a softer way — black can be jarring and look harsh in photos regardless of your age. I recommend using either the Dior Diorshow On Stage Liquid Liner in Matte Brown or Hourglass 1.5 MM Mechanical Eyeliner in Brown, which is small and very precise. I also like to raise the liner upwards a bit at the outer corner of your eyes, which helps make the eyes appear more lifted.
For eye shadow, mid-tones like soft brown or gray are great to smudge along the lash lines. Or, if you want to gently smoke out the eyes a bit without going too dark, try the colors in the Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill Quad in Boudoir.
And lastly… lips! Here are some of my favorite lip tricks below:
Always ensure the lips are hydrated before you start. I love to use Elizabeth Arden 8 Hours Cream, applying it when I'm prepping the skin.
Pale, neutral lip colors aren't really your friend when you get older, as they can wash you out (but again, if that's the color you like to wear, then go right ahead). I would suggest going for creamy lipstick formula in warm tones like peach, melon, or berry. I love the Nars Audacious Lips Palette in Super Wanted, because it's perfect versatile, customizable, and includes shades you can wear from day to night. I love it so much I gave one to Kim as well.
Just because it’s called lip liner doesn’t mean you have to make the line obvious. The first time I worked with Kim she showed me to line your lips only where you want to enhance them, so just the Cupid's bow and a bit on the center of the bottom lips, a technique that makes your lips appear fuller. My favorite liner is Votre Vu Drawmatic Lip Liner, it’s creamy and not waxy so there are no harsh lines. I also love the Lancôme clear wax pencil to trace along edges to prevent bleeding and feathering, especially when I'm working with a more colorful lip shade."
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